Embark on an extreme off-grid motorcycle expedition from Hanle to the pristine twin lakes of Ryul Tso and Chilling Tso. This 3-day remote journey covers ultra-high-altitude dirt tracks, Salsal La pass, and the vast Changthang plateau before returning to Leh. Ideal for experienced solo riders, it is best ridden from June to September with a fuel budget of ₹900. Indian nationals no longer require Inner Line Permits (ILP) for the Chumur axis; an Environment/Development Fee (EDF) must be paid online, and the receipt carried. Foreign nationals still require Protected Area Permits (PAP). Travelers should also be aware of recent weather alerts (March-April 2026) for Ladakh, including heavy rain, snow, thunderstorms, gusty winds, and potential landslides, which can make high-altitude routes extremely hazardous. As of June 13, 2026, the Manali-Leh Highway, which forms part of the return route to Leh, is open only for 4x4 vehicles, potentially impacting motorcycle travel for Day 3. Riders should verify current road status for bikes before departure.
Depart from Hanle village early. Ensure your jerry cans are full, as there are no petrol pumps on this route. Indian nationals no longer require Inner Line Permits (ILP) for the Chumur axis; an Environment/Development Fee (EDF) must be paid online, and the receipt carried. Foreign nationals still require Protected Area Permits (PAP).
0 km
Navigate the rugged dirt tracks to reach the summit of Salsal La pass (5,201m). Enjoy panoramic views of the barren Changthang plateau.
45 km
Arrive at the twin lakes. Ryul Tso is characterized by stunning hypersaline blue waters, while nearby Chilling Tso is freshwater. Consume your packed lunch here.
54 km
Ride northwest over Thit Zarbo La (5,213m) towards Nidar village. The track involves challenging loose gravel, sand traps, and dry riverbeds.
80 km
Reach the military settlement of Nyoma. Check into a basic homestay to rest after an exhausting off-road day.
120 km
Enjoy a relaxed morning departure from Nyoma. The road quality improves significantly to paved tarmac alongside the Indus River.
0 km
Cross the strategic Mahe Bridge. Indian nationals no longer need to present Inner Line Permits; instead, the online Environment/Development Fee (EDF) receipt will be checked by military personnel. Foreign nationals still need to present Protected Area Permits (PAP).
25 km
Check into a guesthouse. Spend the afternoon soaking your tired muscles in the natural Chumathang Hot Springs, boiling directly out of the rocky riverbank.
50 km
Begin the final leg of the journey on smooth, scenic tarmac winding through the Indus Valley gorges.
Cross the Upshi bridge where the road merges with the busy Manali-Leh highway. **Note: As of June 13, 2026, the Manali-Leh Highway is reported as open only for 4x4 vehicles. Motorcycle riders should verify current status for bikes.** Stop at a roadside dhaba for tea and Maggi.
Refuel at the Indian Oil petrol pump in Karu. **Note: This section is part of the Manali-Leh Highway, which as of June 13, 2026, is reported as open only for 4x4 vehicles. Motorcycle riders should verify current status for bikes.** This is the first official fuel station available since you originally left the Leh vicinity.
Conclude the expedition in Leh city. Rest, acclimatize, and arrange for your motorcycle to be serviced after the harsh terrain.
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